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Just what are the rules?

There are strong traditions in the tea drinking world. Us theics can be very loyal to what we deem the “proper” way to have a cuppa. Check out the strong opinions of one most passionate tea-drinker, George Orwell.

“If you look up ‘tea’ in the first cookery book that comes to hand you will probably find that it is unmentioned; or at most you will find a few lines of sketchy instructions which give no ruling on several of the most important points.

This is curious, not only because tea is one of the main stays of civilization in this country, as well as in Eire, Australia and New Zealand, but because the best manner of making it is the subject of violent disputes.

When I look through my own recipe for the perfect cup of tea, I find no fewer than eleven outstanding points. On perhaps two of them there would be pretty general agreement, but at least four others are acutely controversial. Here are my own eleven rules, every one of which I regard as golden:

First of all, one should use Indian or Ceylonese tea. China tea has virtues which are not to be despised nowadays — it is economical, and one can drink it without milk — but there is not much stimulation in it. One does not feel wiser, braver or more optimistic after drinking it. Anyone who has used that comforting phrase ‘a nice cup of tea’ invariably means Indian tea.

Secondly, tea should be made in small quantities — that is, in a teapot. Tea out of an urn is always tasteless, while army tea, made in a cauldron, tastes of grease and whitewash. The teapot should be made of china or earthenware. Silver or Britannia ware teapots produce inferior tea and enamel pots are worse; though curiously enough a pewter teapot (a rarity nowadays) is not so bad.

Thirdly, the pot should be warmed beforehand. This is better done by placing it on the hob than by the usual method of swilling it out with hot water.

Fourthly, the tea should be strong. For a pot holding a quart, if you are going to fill it nearly to the brim, six heaped teaspoons would be about right. In a time of rationing, this is not an idea that can be realized on every day of the week, but I maintain that one strong cup of tea is better than twenty weak ones. All true tea lovers not only like their tea strong, but like it a little stronger with each year that passes — a fact which is recognized in the extra ration issued to old-age pensioners.

Fifthly, the tea should be put straight into the pot. No strainers, muslin bags or other devices to imprison the tea. In some countries teapots are fitted with little dangling baskets under the spout to catch the stray leaves, which are supposed to be harmful. Actually one can swallow tea-leaves in considerable quantities without ill effect, and if the tea is not loose in the pot it never infuses properly.

Sixthly, one should take the teapot to the kettle and not the other way about. The water should be actually boiling at the moment of impact, which means that one should keep it on the flame while one pours. Some people add that one should only use water that has been freshly brought to the boil, but I have never noticed that it makes any difference.

Seventhly, after making the tea, one should stir it, or better, give the pot a good shake, afterwards allowing the leaves to settle.

Eighthly, one should drink out of a good breakfast cup — that is, the cylindrical type of cup, not the flat, shallow type. The breakfast cup holds more, and with the other kind one’s tea is always half cold before one has well started on it.

Ninthly, one should pour the cream off the milk before using it for tea. Milk that is too creamy always gives tea a sickly taste.

Tenthly, one should pour tea into the cup first. This is one of the most controversial points of all; indeed in every family in Britain there are probably two schools of thought on the subject. The milk-first school can bring forward some fairly strong arguments, but I maintain that my own argument is unanswerable. This is that, by putting the tea in first and stirring as one pours, one can exactly regulate the amount of milk whereas one is liable to put in too much milk if one does it the other way round.

Lastly, tea — unless one is drinking it in the Russian style — should be drunk without sugar. I know very well that I am in a minority here. But still, how can you call yourself a true tea-lover if you destroy the flavour of your tea by putting sugar in it? It would be equally reasonable to put in pepper or salt. Tea is meant to be bitter, just as beer is meant to be bitter. If you sweeten it, you are no longer tasting the tea, you are merely tasting the sugar; you could make a very similar drink by dissolving sugar in plain hot water.

Some people would answer that they don’t like tea in itself, that they only drink it in order to be warmed and stimulated, and they need sugar to take the taste away. To those misguided people I would say: Try drinking tea without sugar for, say, a fortnight and it is very unlikely that you will ever want to ruin your tea by sweetening it again.

These are not the only controversial points to arise in connexion with tea drinking, but they are sufficient to show how subtilized the whole business has become. There is also the mysterious social etiquette surrounding the teapot (why is it considered vulgar to drink out of your saucer, for instance?) and much might be written about the subsidiary uses of tea leaves, such as telling fortunes, predicting the arrival of visitors, feeding rabbits, healing burns and sweeping the carpet. It is worth paying attention to such details as warming the pot and using water that is really boiling, so as to make quite sure of wringing out of one’s ration the twenty good, strong cups of that two ounces, properly handled, ought to represent.”

Pretty strong case by Mister Orwell. I’m going to explain some of the reasons the traditions exist and sum up the “correct” way to have your tea.

One might hear mentioned that tea without milk is hardly tea. Some believe tea can only be taken with milk. Milk can be a great way to eliminate the tannic quality perceived in the mouth by a particular fine leaf tea, or even one that is simply astringent in nature. The smoothness of the resulting taste can be hence preferred. Others enjoy the sensation that dries the walls of the mouth and brings a thirst for another sip. In tea cupping (professional tasting of tea), the tea is taken as is. This allows the subtle differences between different tea; taste, texture, aroma etc, to be easily understood.

Orwell does mention the “loose in the pot” method over the straining, or basket, method. There is reason in this. Leaf needs to be able to swim freely in order for thorough representation of flavour to be extracted. The more the leaf can expand and be unfettered in its brewing, the better your tea will extract. Benefit can also be found in a basket-method, however. Have you often come to the end of a teapot, to find the last cup tasted completely different from the first? Even a difference of 30 seconds steep time can impact your tea. Basket and infusers allow greater control of your brewing.

These are just two examples of the strongly held beliefs about tea drinking and brewing. There are other hot topics (plungers? whole leaf versus broken leaf? citrus-scented teas should be had straight?), but in the end, the result comes down to one thing.

The correct way to have your tea is: WHATEVER TASTES GOOD TO YOU. Don’t let people tell you that an earl grey cannot have milk, or that only porcelain cups are allowed. I have before given guidelines of temperatures to brew certain teas. If that isn’t how you like your tea? Ignore it! You may like consistency in your pot of tea from first cup to last. You may enjoy appreciating the difference in taste over time. Choose the free-swimming way, or removable basket, as YOUR preference. Your tea? Your way.

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